Browse code

Add mountains posts

Joseph Weston authored on28/03/2021 23:05:29
Showing91 changed files
1 1
new file mode 100644
2 2
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/aretes-du-gerbier/gallery/distance.jpeg differ
3 3
new file mode 100644
4 4
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/aretes-du-gerbier/gallery/first_edge.jpeg differ
5 5
new file mode 100644
6 6
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/aretes-du-gerbier/gallery/gaz.jpeg differ
7 7
new file mode 100644
8 8
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/aretes-du-gerbier/gallery/going_home.jpeg differ
9 9
new file mode 100644
10 10
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/aretes-du-gerbier/gallery/rappel.jpeg differ
11 11
new file mode 100644
12 12
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/aretes-du-gerbier/gallery/razors_edge.jpeg differ
13 13
new file mode 100644
14 14
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/aretes-du-gerbier/gallery/ready_to_go.jpeg differ
15 15
new file mode 100644
... ...
@@ -0,0 +1,26 @@
1
+---
2
+title: Arêtes du Gerbier
3
+date: 2014-10-31
4
+tags:
5
+  - mountains
6
+  - alpinism
7
+featuredImage: gallery/rappel.jpeg
8
+---
9
+
10
+Recently there seems to be a theme of re-doing old classics with
11
+new people; this time Rob, JB and I took a crack at the
12
+[arêtes du Gerbier][c2c]. I had previously done this route with
13
+Rob and Greg about two years ago, although at that time everything
14
+was in dense cloud and still partially covered in snow. It was good
15
+to re-do the ridge as it's meant to be done, on a lovely sunny day
16
+when you can really get a sense of the space to either side.
17
+
18
+As before Rob has an [entry on his blog][blog_story] with a more detailed
19
+account of the day's events (and he has copyright on the images in the
20
+gallery). All in all a great day out.
21
+
22
+{{<gallery>}}
23
+
24
+
25
+[c2c]: http://www.camptocamp.org/routes/54152/fr/gerbier-traversee-des-aretes
26
+[blog_story]: https://robestivill.wordpress.com/2014/10/31/aretes-du-gerbier-the-razor-and-other-stories/
0 27
new file mode 100644
1 28
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/belledonne-haute-route/gallery/boulders.jpeg differ
2 29
new file mode 100644
3 30
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/belledonne-haute-route/gallery/down-from-the-col.jpeg differ
4 31
new file mode 100644
5 32
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/belledonne-haute-route/gallery/group-photo.jpeg differ
6 33
new file mode 100644
7 34
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/belledonne-haute-route/gallery/group-photo2.jpeg differ
8 35
new file mode 100644
9 36
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/belledonne-haute-route/gallery/here-comes-the-storm.jpeg differ
10 37
new file mode 100644
11 38
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/belledonne-haute-route/gallery/ice-bridges.jpeg differ
12 39
new file mode 100644
13 40
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/belledonne-haute-route/gallery/into-the-unknown.jpeg differ
14 41
new file mode 100644
15 42
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/belledonne-haute-route/gallery/lac-achard.jpeg differ
16 43
new file mode 100644
17 44
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/belledonne-haute-route/gallery/starry-night.jpeg differ
18 45
new file mode 100644
19 46
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/belledonne-haute-route/gallery/starry-night2.jpeg differ
20 47
new file mode 100644
21 48
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/belledonne-haute-route/gallery/sunset.jpeg differ
22 49
new file mode 100644
23 50
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/belledonne-haute-route/gallery/synth-skylines.jpeg differ
24 51
new file mode 100644
25 52
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/belledonne-haute-route/gallery/winter-sets-in.jpeg differ
26 53
new file mode 100644
... ...
@@ -0,0 +1,88 @@
1
+---
2
+title: Traversée de Belledonne
3
+date: 2017-09-18
4
+tags:
5
+  - mountains
6
+  - hiking
7
+featuredImage: gallery/down-from-the-col.jpeg
8
+---
9
+
10
+A few weeks ago I took a trip back to Grenoble for a review meeting
11
+of the project that I'm working on. It seemed too good an opportunity
12
+to miss out on, so I decided that I would fly out the weekend before
13
+in order to get in some time in the mountains.
14
+While I think the Netherlands offers a really great quality of life,
15
+it doesn't really offer the epic landscapes and mountain activities
16
+that I fell in love with in Grenoble.
17
+
18
+Bas was also going to be present at the meeting, so we decided
19
+that we would go together and do a 2/3 day hike; now it was up
20
+to me to find something suitably epic to give him a taste of what the
21
+last few years of my life had been like! I settled on the
22
+[traversée de Belledonne][c2c], as it was possible to increase or
23
+decrease the difficulty by making only minor modifications to the route.
24
+We could also adjust the length of the route as a function of our motivation,
25
+as there are a few points where it is possible to bail out into the
26
+Grésivaudan valley and hitch hike out.
27
+I called up a few people in Grenoble who I thought would be motivated, and
28
+in the end Bas, Emanuel, Adam and I set out on a Friday
29
+evening for a weekend in the mountains.
30
+
31
+The whole thing nearly ended before it had begun, however, when it turned out
32
+that the bus we needed to get up to Chamrousse was not leaving from the
33
+central bus station after all; cue a mad dash across the city to catch
34
+the next and final bus that day! Luckily we managed to make it with a few
35
+minutes to spare, and by the time dusk was setting in we were well on our way
36
+towards the first camping spot at the back of the ski station. We had decided
37
+that we would camp at the Lacs Robert, as we would hopefully be shielded from
38
+most of the light pollution from Grenoble and would be able to see the stars.
39
+We were not dissapointed.
40
+
41
+{{<figure src="gallery/starry-night2.jpeg">}}
42
+
43
+We arrived at the the spot well after dark, picking
44
+our way down the treacherous path by the light of our headlamps to arrive
45
+next to the lakes under a blanket of stars. As we had set out in complete
46
+"tourist mode" we had brought a kilo and a half of cheese with us, and a
47
+candle-powered raclette grill, as well as a passable bottle of red wine.
48
+After trying unsuccessfully to remove the cork for half an hour we resigned
49
+ourselves to pushing it into the bottle, reasoning
50
+that any wine was better than no wine (with apologies to my French friends).
51
+
52
+We were up and away at a reasonable time the next day, stopping for a brief pause
53
+at the refuge de la Pra to get some information from the warden there about
54
+whether the col de Freydane was passable on foot (given the recent snowfall).
55
+We carried on towards the Croix de Belledonne, asking people coming from that
56
+direction about the conditions. We got a lot of very mixed responses, with some
57
+people telling us that conditions were great, while others were practically
58
+warding us off and telling us that to go over the col de Freydane would
59
+be insane. By the time we got to the lacs du Domènon just below the Croix
60
+the weather had closed in somewhat and the temperature had rapidly dropped.
61
+We saw some people up towards the col, so decided to go and have a look.
62
+In the worst case we would have to backtrack, losing a thousand metres of
63
+altitude, only to have to climb back up on the other side to join
64
+the path on the other side of the col. The broody atmosphere as we
65
+arrived at the col made us consider our decision a few minutes more, but
66
+the light dusting of snow did not render the way any more dangerous so
67
+we decided to plough on.
68
+
69
+The descent from the col went with barely a hitch (although Bas briefly
70
+dislocated his shoulder when his wrist got stuck in the strap of
71
+his poles!). Before long we found ourselves approaching the refuge Jean Collet.
72
+We were all pretty tired by this point, but luckily we only had to walk fifteen
73
+minutes further until we found a suitable place to set up our tents. A light
74
+rain began to fall as we started preparing our supper of soup, couscous,
75
+and the remains of the cheese. The raclette was certainly less pleasant
76
+this time around!
77
+
78
+{{<figure src="gallery/group-photo2.jpeg">}}
79
+
80
+On Sunday we only had a few hours walking before reaching the road,
81
+and we all managed to hitch hike back in time for celebratory beers.
82
+
83
+All the photos are copyright Bas Nijholt 2017.
84
+
85
+{{<gallery>}}
86
+
87
+
88
+[c2c]: https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/179348/fr/traversee-de-belledonne-haute-route-ete
0 89
new file mode 100644
1 90
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/cornes-pied-berarde/gallery/01.jpeg differ
2 91
new file mode 100644
3 92
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/cornes-pied-berarde/gallery/02.jpeg differ
4 93
new file mode 100644
5 94
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/cornes-pied-berarde/gallery/03.jpeg differ
6 95
new file mode 100644
7 96
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/cornes-pied-berarde/gallery/04.jpeg differ
8 97
new file mode 100644
9 98
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/cornes-pied-berarde/gallery/05.jpeg differ
10 99
new file mode 100644
11 100
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/cornes-pied-berarde/gallery/06.jpeg differ
12 101
new file mode 100644
13 102
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/cornes-pied-berarde/gallery/07.jpeg differ
14 103
new file mode 100644
15 104
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/cornes-pied-berarde/gallery/08.jpeg differ
16 105
new file mode 100644
17 106
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/cornes-pied-berarde/gallery/09.jpeg differ
18 107
new file mode 100644
19 108
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/cornes-pied-berarde/gallery/10.jpeg differ
20 109
new file mode 100644
21 110
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/cornes-pied-berarde/gallery/11.jpeg differ
22 111
new file mode 100644
23 112
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/cornes-pied-berarde/gallery/12.jpeg differ
24 113
new file mode 100644
25 114
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/cornes-pied-berarde/gallery/13.jpeg differ
26 115
new file mode 100644
27 116
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/cornes-pied-berarde/gallery/14.jpeg differ
28 117
new file mode 100644
29 118
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/cornes-pied-berarde/gallery/15.jpeg differ
30 119
new file mode 100644
31 120
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/cornes-pied-berarde/gallery/16.jpeg differ
32 121
new file mode 100644
33 122
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/cornes-pied-berarde/gallery/17.jpeg differ
34 123
new file mode 100644
35 124
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/cornes-pied-berarde/gallery/18.jpeg differ
36 125
new file mode 100644
37 126
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/cornes-pied-berarde/gallery/19.jpeg differ
38 127
new file mode 100644
39 128
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/cornes-pied-berarde/gallery/20.jpeg differ
40 129
new file mode 100644
41 130
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/cornes-pied-berarde/gallery/21.jpeg differ
42 131
new file mode 100644
43 132
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/cornes-pied-berarde/gallery/22.jpeg differ
44 133
new file mode 100644
45 134
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/cornes-pied-berarde/gallery/23.jpeg differ
46 135
new file mode 100644
... ...
@@ -0,0 +1,32 @@
1
+---
2
+title: Cornes de Pié Bérarde
3
+date: 2014-12-01
4
+tags:
5
+  - mountains
6
+  - climbing
7
+featuredImage: gallery/22.jpeg
8
+---
9
+
10
+I actually did this tour in summer 2013, but didn't get around to putting the
11
+pictures up on the blog until now!
12
+
13
+Christoph and I had been saying for a while that we should do some multipitch together,
14
+and finally we managed to find a weekend where we were both free. We decided to do
15
+the [Cornes de Pié Bérarde](https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/56718/fr/cornes-de-pie-berarde-eperon-ne),
16
+as it seemed like a fun route in a pretty wild setting, and the topo claimed it was no harder than French 5a.
17
+
18
+We arrived at La Bérarde on a Friday evening, after having taking the Transisère bus from Grenoble.
19
+Once we arrived at the refuge we realized that I had forgotten the entire set of cams, meaning that we
20
+would have to climb the entire route with just a set of ten nuts; oh dear! We set off the next morning
21
+anyway, eager to attack the three hour approach and see whether the route would be climbable with our
22
+deminished set of gear. Christoph took the first lead, and it quickly became obvious that everything
23
+was going to be ok.
24
+
25
+The rock was of really good quality, and the granite gave ample opportunities for bomber nut placements.
26
+After a few hours of top-notch climbing we topped out at about 2PM into the blistering July sun.
27
+The three-to-four hour walk off mentioned in the topo was not looking particularly appetizing at this
28
+point but, with no better alternative, we shouldered our backpacks and got to it. We arrived back in
29
+La Bérarde with about half an hour to spare before the last bus of the day; just enough time to get
30
+an ice cream and take in the epic surroundings before coming back to civilization.
31
+
32
+{{<gallery>}}
0 33
new file mode 100644
1 34
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/dibona/gallery/cirque.jpeg differ
2 35
new file mode 100644
3 36
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/dibona/gallery/into-the-sky.jpeg differ
4 37
new file mode 100644
5 38
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/dibona/gallery/jb.jpeg differ
6 39
new file mode 100644
7 40
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/dibona/gallery/nain.jpeg differ
8 41
new file mode 100644
9 42
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/dibona/gallery/panorama.jpeg differ
10 43
new file mode 100644
11 44
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/dibona/gallery/selfie.jpeg differ
12 45
new file mode 100644
13 46
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/dibona/gallery/sheep.jpeg differ
14 47
new file mode 100644
15 48
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/dibona/gallery/up-close.jpeg differ
16 49
new file mode 100644
... ...
@@ -0,0 +1,41 @@
1
+---
2
+title: Aiguille Dibona
3
+date: 2015-07-15
4
+tags:
5
+  - mountains
6
+  - climbing
7
+featuredImage: gallery/panorama.jpeg
8
+---
9
+
10
+As you round the last corner and climb up out of the ravine into the Soreiller
11
+cirque, the sharpened point of the *Aiguille Dibona* comes into view. At its
12
+summit it is only a few metres wide; it truly is the only mountain that I have
13
+ever seen that truly deserves the title of *aiguille* (needle).
14
+
15
+I had been talking to JB for a while about going to the Dibona and we finally
16
+both had a weekend free with a clear weather window. We hiked in with two days
17
+of food planning to bivouac near the refuge, I'd already been before and knew
18
+that there were some places close by. After leaving most of our gear at a
19
+likely bivouac spot we tackled the *Voie du Nain*, a simple 5 pitch affair with
20
+a single pitch of 5a max. As people usually do, we finished up the normal
21
+route, topping out at around 3pm. As usual the views were stunning; the perfect
22
+end to the first day! On returning to the bivouac we prepared dinner and
23
+decided which routes to do the day after as we munched our couscous and
24
+mushroom soup (a classic culinary combination).
25
+
26
+{{<figure src="gallery/cirque.jpeg">}}
27
+
28
+One thing which is so great about climbing around the Dibona in the height of
29
+summer is that all the climbing is so close that you don't need to get up
30
+particularly early in order to be able to get a decent amount of climbing in in
31
+the day. We were able to roll out of our sleeping bags and be at the foot of
32
+the first route of the day at the leisurely hour of 9am, safe in the knowledge
33
+that we had about 12 hours of sunlight ahead of us. That day we would tackle
34
+two routes, each of about 4 pitches. We weren't exactly pushing the envelope
35
+in terms of technical difficulty (these routes were of grade 4+ maximum), but
36
+it gave us a good opportunity to climb in our mountain boots, which was good
37
+training. After some brief trouble with a stuck rope on the final rappel we
38
+headed for the refuge for a pint of some locally brewed beer before starting
39
+the (long) descent back to the car in the late afternoon sunshine.
40
+
41
+{{<gallery>}}
0 42
new file mode 100644
1 43
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/mont-aiguille/gallery/montaiguille-10.jpeg differ
2 44
new file mode 100644
3 45
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/mont-aiguille/gallery/montaiguille-3.jpeg differ
4 46
new file mode 100644
5 47
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/mont-aiguille/gallery/peak.jpeg differ
6 48
new file mode 100644
... ...
@@ -0,0 +1,23 @@
1
+---
2
+title: Ascension of Mont Aiguille
3
+date: 2014-10-22
4
+tags:
5
+  - mountains
6
+  - alpinism
7
+featuredImage: gallery/montaiguille-3.jpeg
8
+---
9
+
10
+I recently took a trip down memory lane with another (third?) ascension of the
11
+classic [Mont Aiguille normal route][c2c], this time with Rob and JB. A nice
12
+easy climb with just enough of a walk-in to get warmed up and some rockfall for
13
+that spicy edge.
14
+
15
+Rob maintains a [pretty blog][blog] with plenty of pictures and a nice
16
+narrative of [this outing][blog_story]. The pictures in the gallery are
17
+from Rob's blog and he maintains the copyright for them.
18
+
19
+{{<gallery>}}
20
+
21
+[c2c]: http://www.camptocamp.org/routes/53925/fr/mont-aiguille-voie-normale
22
+[blog]: https://robestivill.wordpress.com/
23
+[blog_story]: https://robestivill.wordpress.com/2014/10/22/conquistadors-of-the-useless/
0 24
new file mode 100644
1 25
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/pic-lauziere/gallery/at_the_col.jpeg differ
2 26
new file mode 100644
3 27
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/pic-lauziere/gallery/destination.jpeg differ
4 28
new file mode 100644
5 29
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/pic-lauziere/gallery/getting_there.jpeg differ
6 30
new file mode 100644
7 31
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/pic-lauziere/gallery/into_the_hills.jpeg differ
8 32
new file mode 100644
9 33
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/pic-lauziere/gallery/loose_climbing.jpeg differ
10 34
new file mode 100644
11 35
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/pic-lauziere/gallery/setting_off.jpeg differ
12 36
new file mode 100644
13 37
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/pic-lauziere/gallery/summit_prize.jpeg differ
14 38
new file mode 100644
... ...
@@ -0,0 +1,44 @@
1
+---
2
+title: Grand Pic de la Lauzière
3
+date: 2015-03-28
4
+tags:
5
+  - mountains
6
+  - ski-touring
7
+featuredImage: gallery/into_the_hills.jpeg
8
+---
9
+
10
+It's getting warmer and the snow is already disappearing from lower altitudes,
11
+this may well be the last ski tour of the season! This morning JB, Emanuel,
12
+Sebastjan, Mark and I met up with the aim of skiing the Grand Pic de la
13
+Lauzière, an impressive peak standing at 2829m of altitude, 1500m of which we
14
+would have to climb to attain the summit.
15
+
16
+The day started well with Mark falling over while doing a conversion on one of
17
+the inital slopes, sending him tumbling down a few metres and severely injuring
18
+his pride. Once he was back on his feet we continued up into the valley,
19
+overtaking another group of *randonneurs* headed for the same summit. I was
20
+already flagging as we reached the first col which would take us across into
21
+the next valley before we started the last 500m before the summital slope.
22
+JB was already forging ahead at a punishing pace and I had no choice but to
23
+suck it up and press forward.
24
+
25
+As we reached the col some 60m or so beneath the summit there were already
26
+others coming down off the top, giving us confidence that conditions were good
27
+to tackle this final challenge. The final 60m consisted of a steep slope (about
28
+45 degrees) interrupted by a few rimed up rocks. The sheer drop to one side and
29
+the small cliff on the other, combined with the rocks, rendered this section
30
+impracticable on skis; luckily the topo had forewarned us of this and we were well
31
+equipped with crampons and ice axes.  Starting up the slope I was already
32
+getting the impression that the climb down would be a more significant challenge
33
+than climbing up, as the snow was soft from the spring sunshine and would
34
+occasionally give way under your feet. I arrived at the top to find Emanuel
35
+already tucking into his celebratory summit cheese, which we all enjoyed.
36
+Mark and Emanuel both were somewhat aprehensive about the climb down, so
37
+I went first, kicking deep steps into the snow. We all arrived back at the col
38
+in one piece, and all that remained was to set our bindings to downhill mode
39
+ and head for home.
40
+
41
+A good day out was had by all. I hope that we will be able to get another
42
+tour in before the season is over, even with the rapidly melting snow.
43
+
44
+{{<gallery>}}
0 45
new file mode 100644
1 46
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/ski-raid/gallery/dent.jpeg differ
2 47
new file mode 100644
3 48
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/ski-raid/gallery/dome.jpeg differ
4 49
new file mode 100644
5 50
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/ski-raid/gallery/fox.jpeg differ
6 51
new file mode 100644
7 52
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/ski-raid/gallery/jb.jpeg differ
8 53
new file mode 100644
9 54
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/ski-raid/gallery/me.jpeg differ
10 55
new file mode 100644
11 56
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/ski-raid/gallery/me_and_jb.jpeg differ
12 57
new file mode 100644
13 58
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/ski-raid/gallery/mud.jpeg differ
14 59
new file mode 100644
15 60
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/ski-raid/gallery/nearly_there.jpeg differ
16 61
new file mode 100644
17 62
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/ski-raid/gallery/rob.jpeg differ
18 63
new file mode 100644
... ...
@@ -0,0 +1,27 @@
1
+---
2
+title: Tour of the Dôme de Polset
3
+date: 2014-12-18
4
+tags:
5
+  - mountains
6
+  - ski-touring
7
+featuredImage: gallery/dome.jpeg
8
+---
9
+
10
+The first skitour of the year, and what an epic one it was.  Not being one for
11
+doing things by half measures Rob proposed [this tour][skitour]. As neither
12
+Rob, JB nor I really fancied taking the Monday or the Friday off we opted to
13
+compress the three days into two; given that we had to cover nearly 40km and
14
+more than 3000m of ascent, this was our first mistake.  In the end we did not
15
+end up making it to the summit, mainly due to my insistance that I would most
16
+likely collapse in a heap at some point on the return journey. Despite this it
17
+was still an epic trip and was physically very challenging for me, and it was
18
+good to see my limits as well.
19
+
20
+As before, Rob has written a [very good account][blog_story] with a more
21
+compelling narrative and some well-composed images (some of which are included
22
+in the gallery below).
23
+
24
+{{<gallery>}}
25
+
26
+[skitour]: http://www.skitour.fr/topos/dome-de-polset,4670.html
27
+[blog_story]: https://robestivill.wordpress.com/2014/12/18/476/
0 28
new file mode 100644
1 29
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/tour-ronde/gallery/01.jpeg differ
2 30
new file mode 100644
3 31
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/tour-ronde/gallery/02.jpeg differ
4 32
new file mode 100644
5 33
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/tour-ronde/gallery/03.jpeg differ
6 34
new file mode 100644
7 35
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/tour-ronde/gallery/04.jpeg differ
8 36
new file mode 100644
9 37
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/tour-ronde/gallery/05.jpeg differ
10 38
new file mode 100644
11 39
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/tour-ronde/gallery/06.jpeg differ
12 40
new file mode 100644
13 41
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/tour-ronde/gallery/07.jpeg differ
14 42
new file mode 100644
15 43
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/tour-ronde/gallery/08.jpeg differ
16 44
new file mode 100644
17 45
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/tour-ronde/gallery/09.jpeg differ
18 46
new file mode 100644
19 47
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/tour-ronde/gallery/10.jpeg differ
20 48
new file mode 100644
21 49
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/tour-ronde/gallery/11.jpeg differ
22 50
new file mode 100644
23 51
Binary files /dev/null and b/content/posts/mountains/tour-ronde/gallery/12.jpeg differ
24 52
new file mode 100644
... ...
@@ -0,0 +1,75 @@
1
+---
2
+title: Tour Ronde face nord
3
+date: 2015-01-13
4
+tags:
5
+  - mountains
6
+  - alpinism
7
+featuredImage: gallery/03.jpeg
8
+---
9
+
10
+I did this tour over two years ago, and it was probably the best experience I've had in
11
+the mountains to date. I had got back to Grenoble in the autumn of 2012, and had been
12
+eager to try some more challenging mountaineering, so when Mehdi proposed [the north
13
+face of La Tour Ronde](https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/54157/fr/tour-ronde-face-n)
14
+in January 2013, I was all for it.
15
+
16
+
17
+The route to La Tour Ronde starts from the Aiguille du Midi cable car station
18
+and, due to the incredibly short winter days, we had to sleep in the car on Friday
19
+evening to be sure to get the first lift up in the morning. We did manage to get
20
+the first lift, but as it was at 8:30 in the morning (i.e. super late) we knew we would
21
+still be hard pressed to complete the route before darkness fell. Given the length
22
+of the route and the approach, we planned to leave our gear on the glacier so
23
+that we could camp and ski down the mer de glace on the Sunday.
24
+
25
+{{<figure src="gallery/05.jpeg">}}
26
+
27
+The sun was already high in the sky as we approached the imposing north face. I was
28
+already starting to get nervous as Mehdi took the first pitch up the steep snow slope,
29
+and we started moving together. As we reached the first rocks to the side of the route
30
+Mehdi dug into the snow and I moved past him towards the central constriction. I led
31
+up until the snow gave way to bullet ice just below the central constriction, and built
32
+a solid belay. I really wanted to avoid running out of rope half way through a difficult
33
+section.
34
+
35
+
36
+Mehdi handled the hardest section of the route with aplomb. Despite the sun, this
37
+was still January at nearly 4000 metres of altitude, and the northern orientation of the face
38
+meant that the sun did not hit the ice in the middle of the route, leaving it brittle.
39
+After I seconded up to Mehdi's belay it was my turn to take the lead again. Looking above me
40
+I saw an uninterrupted wall of ice to the top; there was clearly nowhere reasonable to put
41
+a bomber belay, so it looked like I would have to run it out on my own. The ice offered
42
+pretty good placements, and I was confident as I slowly but surely picked my way up the ice.
43
+Given the time it took to clean the ice and place each screw, I only put one in every 20 metres or so,
44
+trying my best to keep at least 2 screws between Mehdi and myself. Despite my confidence, seeing the
45
+rope snaking away from me down the ice, joining me to the tiny speck below was one of the most
46
+gripping experiences I have ever had.
47
+
48
+{{<figure src="gallery/06.jpeg">}}
49
+
50
+Finally I reached a shoulder of snow just below the final piece of rock climbing under the summit.
51
+Despite the fact that the previous pitch was probably only about 120 metres it still took me nearly
52
+2 hours to lead it, and the sun was already sinking below the horizon by the time Mehdi arrived.
53
+He started making his way round the tower until we reached an easy ramp to the summit, topping
54
+out into the pitch blackness and howling wind. A quick photo and we were ready to get ourselves
55
+down.
56
+
57
+
58
+We knew that we had to follow the southeastern arret until we reached a col, followed by
59
+some easy downclimbing to reach the glacier, and our gear. Mehdi had already climbed the Tour Ronde
60
+by this route, and so knew approximately the way to go. Despite this, the conditions made the going
61
+pretty tough; the strong wind was contantly threatening to throw us off balance, and was sending
62
+flurries of snow into our faces (my glasses had been destroyed a few hours previously by the adze
63
+of my ice axe).
64
+
65
+As we finally passed onto the snow-covered glacier I was very much ready to lie down and sleep forever,
66
+but we still had to find our gear and erect the tent! After all was said and done we were in bed
67
+by 22:30. We woke late the following day, taking advantage of the continuing good weather to
68
+profit from our surroundings, before packing up our gear and preparing for the ski down. After
69
+the effort of the previous day, skiing down a crevasse-ridden glacier with a 12kg backpack was
70
+certainly tough, but a great way to end a great weekend.
71
+
72
+
73
+All photos are Copyright Medhi Cherfaoui.
74
+
75
+{{<gallery>}}
0 76
new file mode 100644
... ...
@@ -0,0 +1,12 @@
1
+<link rel="stylesheet" href="https://cdnjs.cloudflare.com/ajax/libs/lightbox2/2.11.1/css/lightbox.min.css" />
2
+<script src="https://cdnjs.cloudflare.com/ajax/libs/jquery/3.4.1/jquery.min.js"></script>
3
+<script src="https://cdnjs.cloudflare.com/ajax/libs/lightbox2/2.11.1/js/lightbox.min.js"></script>
4
+
5
+<h1> Gallery </h1>
6
+{{ $image := (.Page.Resources.ByType "image") }}
7
+{{ with $image }}
8
+    {{ range . }}
9
+    {{ $resized := .Fill "150x115 q20" }}
10
+    <a href="{{ .Permalink }}" data-lightbox="x"><img src="{{ $resized.Permalink }}" /></a>
11
+    {{ end }}
12
+{{ end }}